Fertilizer – Green Gardens

Did You Know Your Plants Dying Because Of Water.

Watering the plants are the most important that we have to do during taking care of a plant. But many of us who are beginners here don’t know that they have to water the plants( not joking some peoples have asked me does they really have to water their plants). But apart from that many who are regular gardeners also sometime misconcept about watering. They overwater or underwater which results in plants death. So for those of you I have decided to write this, and give you some knowledge about how to water your plants properly.

Myths in Watering:

Water your plants everyday.
Water your plants until it oozes out.
Water in day, not at night.
Don’t water in summer afternoon.
Don’t water over the plants.
Water less in winter.
Use fresh water for the plants.

How to Water My Plant?

In case of watering everyone should be flexible that is you must have to look upon your plants and understand them and water them only when they are required to, not more not less. There are some plants those require a lot of water whereas some could not tolerate a very less water. So it is also necessary to know about the water requirements of the plants. Again according to the situation watering should be changed in hot summers we need to water regularly than in rains or during transplantation there should a sufficient amount of water such that it does not wilt.

Are the Myths Correct?

Some are correct, but all are not. Listening to anyone else without doing a homework about the matter is foolish. I would suggest to know your plant and about your plant and you will be self sufficient about what to do and when.

How to check that a plant need water?

It is really hard for many of us to know whether a plant needs water or not, for this a simple trick is finger dip method. In this method you can dip your finger into the soil up to half a inch and see whether it is wet inside or not then you can easily avoid overwatering or underwatering. This will help you to grow a very good experience about the matter.

How to know you have Overwatered or Underwatered your plants?

Both overwatering or underwatering for a long period is deadly for the plant. So the first thing to do is to regularly check the soil. A wet soil is dark in colour and it must be loose and clayey. But on the other hand dry soil will be of lighter shade and hard. On the plant you could also see the effect, in overwatering the plant will be rotting specially the leaves and lower part of the shoot. Whereas in case of underwatering plants will firstly wilt, then the leaves will be yellow and shed the leaves and the shoots will be dried out towards the tip(away from the base). A fact is that in case of overwatering it affects the bottom part of the shoot (radical) whereas the underwatering affects tips of stems.

What are the remedial measures of Over or Underwatering?

For overwatering, first stop watering and keep your plant in place with plenty of sunlight. And if rot has started apply fungicides on and around the rot.

In case of underwatering give it a sufficient amount of water and place it in a moist and cool area away from sunlight for some days.

Bougainvillea: The Beauty of Your Garden

This tropical plant is one of the common and best easy growing bonsai plants which looks tantalizing when it has a full tree bloom. It will just give your garden royal touch. Here underneath you could know everything about your bougainvillea. if you are a beginner this is a jewel and if an expert, there is for you too.

Climate: This plant could thrive well in temperate as well as tropical regions. It blooms at a low temperature so in the temperate region it blooms throughout the year but in the tropical regions it flowers around the winter season.

Temperature: Though this plant is cold loving plant it could grow in a long range of temperatures. About 5 to 45 ⁰C.

Soil: This plant loves an acidic type of soli. But it could not tolerate staged water so the soil must be well drained.

Species: More than 80 species of different colours are there of bougainvillea.

Sunlight: This plant could be grown over a long range of temperature regions so the sunlight requirements are different according to regions. In low temperature regions providing of full sunlight is better but in the high temperature regions providing a partial sunlight prevents wilting. In blooming season, it requires at least 5-8 hours of direct sunlight.

Watering: Water should be provided regularly but overwatering should not be done. During the flowering the watering should be lowered or it flower less and grow more. (except in high temperature region where there is a risk of wilting)

Terrain: Always loosen the soil around the trunk to make the soil airy, whether it is in ground or in a container pot. This also helps preventing water lodging problem in soil.

Pruning: bougainvillea is a hard wood type variety. So, it can be grown as a long tree structure as well as in bonsai form. For long structures pruning is only necessary for keeping the plant in a desired shape. But for bonsai both shoot and root pruning are necessary to control the shape and size of the plant.

This plant mostly requires a hard pruning after every flowering and a little once a month. Moreover, it should be taken care that the main root of the tap root system be pruned before planting in a pot and should be repoted once in 2-3 years according to the size of the pot.

Fertilizer: each and every plant require Nitrogen Phosphorus Potassium to grow and flower and this is also same. Other than this some micronutrients are required from time to time according to the plant conditions. For knowing the basic fertilizer click here.

Other than this sometimes there arises a problem of Growth Retardation for which the best is gibberellic acid which could be found inorganic in market or in water in which cow dung cakes are drowned for at least 7 days.

During repotting a mixture of vermicompost 40%, used tea/coffee leaf 20%, neem cake 20%, bone meal10%, horn meal 5%, egg shell5% could also provide a good result for long time. Here I will recommend to reduce the use of inorganic fertilizers as in the long run it will harm your plants and the unused remaining, by the plant in the soil, will harm the nature.

Pesticides: there is a benefit that this plant seldom attacked by pests and if attacked then it can be easily get rid of by spraying neem oil or providing neem cake in the soil. For Fungus attack you can use any antifungal spray or powder available in the market.

For any further query about your bougainvillea plant comment here.

Mineral Elements Required in Plant Nutrition

The plant require a proportional combination of macronutrients and micronutrients. The utility of these nutrients are discussed below with the sign of deficiency syndromes in a plant. To know how to use click here.

Macronutrients:

Nitrogen (N):

Used in larger quantities than any other mineral nutrient. Most frequently deficient for normal growth of non-legumes

Forms taken up by plants: NO₃^–NH₄⁺

Function in plants:

It is part of the amino acids which make up proteins
It is part of the chlorophyll molecule

Deficiency symptoms:

Plants become stunted and/or become yellow on the older leaves
N is mobile in the plant so new leaves may remain green
Excess N may delay maturity
Cause excess growth and little fruiting on melons and tomatoes. Excessive succulence may make a plant more susceptible to disease or insect attack.

Phosphorus (P):

Forms taken up by plants: H₂PO₄^–primary orthophosphate, H₂PO₄^— secondary orthophosphate

Function in plants:

a part of the protein molecule
Necessary for transfer of energy during metabolic processes (ATP)
Hastens maturity, promotes good root development, improves growth and cold tolerance, and improves seedling vigour, important in seed and fruit formation.

Deficiency symptoms:

Dark green colour
Purple cast in corn, lower leaves first because p is mobile.
Delay in maturity
Failure of seed to form

Potassium (K):

It is used in larger amounts than any other element except N. May have “luxury consumption” plants take up more than is needed. K is not a part of any structural component of the plant. Located in the cell sap as an inorganic salt.

Forms taken up by plants: K+

Function in plants:

It is a catalyst in many reactions; carbohydrate, starch and N metabolism
Activation of enzymes involved in photosynthesis, and protein and carbohydrate metabolism
Adjustment of stomatal movement and water relations
Helps disease resistance
Increases quality of fruits and vegetables
Tips and margins of leaves turn brown. K is mobile so this occurs first on lower leaves.

Deficiency symptoms:

Weakening of straw in grain crops (lodging)
K is important in preventing non-protein N from accumulating in plants. When this occurs in forages it may be injurious to animals

Micronutrients:

Calcium (Ca):

Forms taken up by plants: Ca++

Function in plants:

Calcium gives strength to cell walls
Needed for peg development in peanuts
Plant root and tip elongation

Deficiency symptoms:

Ca is immobile so new growth is affected
Failure of terminal buds to develop
Symptoms are not usually seen under field conditions because other problems caused by acidity of soil will generally become limiting factors before Ca. That is, liming prevents Ca deficiency from occurring.
Blossom end rot of tomatoes is an exception to this generalization

Magnesium (Mg):

Forms taken up by plants: Mg++

Function in plants:

A part of the chlorophyll molecule, essential in photosynthesis
Related to phosphorus metabolism
Large quantities found in seed

Deficiency symptoms:

Mg is mobile so symptoms occur first in old leaves.
Interveinal chlorosis. A whitish or yellowish striping effect on grasses.
Tobacco – referred to as sand drowning.

Sulphur(S):

Forms taken up by plants: sulphate some SO4-2 (Sulphur dioxide through leaves).

Function in plants:

A constituent of 3 of the 21 amino acids which form protein cystine, cysteine, and methionine
Present in the organic compounds that give the characteristic odours of onion, garlic, and mustard.

Deficiency symptoms:

Uniformly chlorate plants which are stunted and spindly. Similar to N deficiency symptoms. It is less mobile than N so deficiency may be more apparent on younger leaves.

Manganese (Mn):

Forms taken up by plants: Mn++, Mn+++

Function in plants:

Can be absorbed through the leaves. Required in small quantities – large amounts are toxic (acid soils)
Activation of enzyme systems
Chlorophyll synthesis

Deficiency symptoms:

Mn is immobile – The upper leaves develop yellow streaks.

Iron (Fe):

Forms taken up by plants: Fe++ (ferrous form) Fe+++ (ferric form), Can be taken up by the leaves

Function in plants:

A catalyst in the production of chlorophyll
Enzyme systems
Occur on high ph soils or certain plants
Centipede, azaleas.

Deficiency symptoms:

Immobile so deficiency symptoms occur on young leaves. Interveinal chlorosis. Leaves may turn completely white

Copper (Cu):

Forms taken up by plants: Cu+2 can be absorbed through leaves. Very toxic if too much applied.

Function in plants:

Copper is a catalyst in chlorophyll formation

Deficiency symptoms:

Immobile so upper leaves affected
Corn youngest leaves are yellow and stunted
Vegetables – plants wilt and develop a bluish green cast.

Zinc (Zn):

Forms taken up by plants: Zn+++ can be taken up through leaves. Toxic except in small quantities

Function in plants:

Activator of enzyme systems
Deficiency symptoms:
Occurs on younger leaves (immobile)
Interveinal chlorosis followed by reduction in rate of shoot growth and shortening of internodes (rosetting)

Boron (B):

Forms taken up by plants: H3BO3 can be taken up through leaves

Function in plants:

Can be very toxic if applied to some crops at rates not harmful to others. Deficiency occurs frequently on alfalfa.
Germination of pollen grains and growth of pollen tubes

Deficiency symptoms:

Immobile upper leaves affected. Growth of terminal bud stops

Molybdenum (Mo):

Forms taken up by plants: Mo required in smallest amounts of any mineral nutrient. Excess may be toxic to grazing animals. Moo4

Function in plants:

It is needed for conversion of NO3- to NH4+ in the plant
Required by rhizobia for N fixation in the nodules of legumes

Deficiency symptoms:

Interveinal chlorosis
With legumes it appears as N deficiency (that’s what it is

Chloride (Cl):

Forms taken up by plants: Cl-

Function in plants:

Photosynthetic reactions
Reduced root growth in nutrient cultures.

Deficiency symptoms:

Excessive quantities has a detrimental effect on quality of potatoes and tobacco storage quality of potatoes reduced. Smoking quality of tobacco lowered.

Silicon:

Needed in small quantities by rhizobia for fixation of N in association with legumes. 8 oz/acre on clover gave response essential in formation of vitamin B-12.

Shown to be essential for a green algae

Not shown to be essential for higher plants but growth increases were shown with asparagus, rice, lettuce, barley, corn.

Functions: may be essential for carbohydrate metabolism in some plants. May substitute for potassium

Increased growth of rice in nutrient cultures. Function unknown.

In short we see:

N – Synthesis of proteins and part of chlorophyll molecule

P – Energy transfer

K – Carbohydrate metabolism, water relations

Mg – Chlorophyll molecule

S – Proteins

Ca – Strength of cell wall

Micronutrients – Enzyme activation

Hope you will benefit from this for any query comment here. And Follow to stay updated about new tips for your garden.

The Best Fertilizer For Your Plants

What your plant eats is mainly dependent on what is the current requirements of your plant. So before providing any fertilizer you must have a clear knowledge about what your plant needs.

What does your plant needs?

The fertilizers you provide is not used by the plant in the similar forms you give. They are stored and used up in the process of photosynthesis. Now the mineral requirements of a plant could be divided into two categories that are those Macronutrients and Micronutrients.

Macronutrients:

Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium. These are the elements which are used up by the plants in higher amounts. These components mainly helps in growth, flowering and fruiting of a plant. Though the requirements of these elements are different for different plants, but the deficiency may lead to rickets as well as death of your plants.

Micronutrients:

These are the elements which are used up by the plants in lesser amounts. Such as Calcium, Magnesium, Sulphur, Manganese, Iron, Copper, Zinc, Boron, Molybdenum, Chloride. The main job of these nutrients is enzyme activation. To some special plants it gives rigidity to cell wall, supply proteins and chlorophylls. For some plants Calcium, Magnesium, Sulphur also acts as macronutrients.

Other elements:

Cobalt, Vanadium, Sodium, Silicon. These are some of the other elements required for some particular species of plants.

To know more about the mineral elements follow/ subscribe this site and stay tuned click here.

Where to get this minerals for your plants?

Now the question is what should you give to plants such that they will get the most of these required nutrients. So you may give inorganic fertilizers which are element specific as well as combined ones. These are easy to use and have a quick effects on plants. But you should remember that these inorganic fertilizers most deadly to your plant in the long term. This reduces the soil capacity to hold nutrients and clearly have an effect on your plant, these have many side effects to your garden and over dosage may be deadly. Again for some urgent need it’s not bad to use these inorganics in your garden especially for the seasonal flowers. But overall I would recommend you not to use the inorganics but to stick to the organic alternatives.

Organic fertilizers:

A large number of organic fertilizers are available in the market for your plants, most common are compost, vermicompost, mustard cake, etc. these all performs very well for every plants. Though these are some slow but it hardly have any side effect or have any problems on over dosages.

If you have a little space and some time you can get a continuous supply of organic fertilizer at home completely free. Now I will explain how I made fertilizer at home.

Equipment: The only thing you require are two buckets one is slightly smaller than the other such that one fits at the top of the other keeping some hollow space down. Just as explained in diagram. Now make some small holes at the base of the bucket which is bigger i.e. which will be kept above. And your equipment is ready. Now arrange as shown in the diagram.

Procedure: Then put a little bit of mud inside the bucket you made holes. Now it’s obvious that you every day have some kitchen wastes, garden wastes, like leaves and other rotten things from your garden which you have to put it in that bucket. Don’t use cooked foods or non-veg items in it. Fill it when you see that the volume of these waste have lowered after decomposing for some days. For quick decomposition apply 1 spoon of curd or yogurt in it. After 2 to 3 days you will see that your fertilizer is available in the lower bucket.

Dosage: You have to dilute it 100ml approx. for 1 liter water and apply to plants once in 15 days.

Benefit: This liquid is mainly rich in N-P-K and will be acting as macronutrients.

N – Synthesis of proteins and part of chlorophyll molecule.

P – Energy transfer.

K – Carbohydrate metabolism, water relations.

Now I had mentioned plants need some micronutrients for which the most recommendable is the seaweed extracts, which is a fully organic source of micronutrients. It is mainly formed from the seaweeds and corals, by making paste or liquids. You must use this but use in less amount mentioned by the brand on the pack.

But as mentioned you firstly required to have a complete knowledge what you unique plant is currently asking for. Hope you will benefit from this for any query comment here. Similar important tips are going to be published on pesticides, so Follow to stay updated about new tips for your garden.

Temporary Kitchen Garden Beds

In today’s world of extreme pollution everyone is trying to make a small garden to feel the touch of nature. And in this context there’s a special mention of inflation which has made kitchen gardening a popular one.

Many people have now stared utilizing their backyard or their garden to evolve it into a small kitchen garden. Those who don’t have such places are even making temporary garden beds.

Nowadays peoples have also started terrace farming and vertical farming which maybe a related idea for kitchen gardens.

What could be grown?

There are a large variety of plants that could be grown in garden beds, most common are pumpkin, eggplant, carrots, radish, beans, onion etc. anyone could also grow a variety of seasonal flowers in the temporary beds. Moreover some medicinal herbs could also be grown.

How to preparing a garden bed:

Kitchen garden beds are mainly for small lifespan plants and hence are temporary in use. For this reason it should be provided with high level of organic manures or nutrition to get a good outcome, even in the long term.

Soil: For preparing soil for kitchen gardens you should use organic ingredients. Firstly if you have a bed on ground then take out some soil and put some kitchen wastes in it and cover it up. If you have a bed made as an elevated temporary garden bed then apply a layer of soil then add a layer of kitchen waste and then add another layer of soil on it. And for soil it is better to use compost, vermicompost or cow dung manure.

Fertilizers: The use of inorganic fertilizers will have a quick result. But this will not be the best for you, your plants and causes fertility loss. So the best thing will be to go organic. A plant mainly require nitrogen as its macronutrient along with potassium, phosphorus, carbon and also magnesium, zinc, iron in small amounts as micro nutrients. And any one could make an organic mix by decomposing kitchen waste in a jar or drum, and use the liquid as a fertilizer.

Pesticides: In case of garden beds pesticides are generally required and for this neem cake mixed with soil is best. One most important problem is ants. For this you may apply any type of ant repellent that doesn’t harm your plants.

Precautions: As they are basically small in size the watering must be done in a regular way but never overwater. Refresh the soil with lime and add new nutrients, before every growing seasons.

So let’s grow a small piece of garden in a temporary bed this summer and comment under to know more. And Follow GreenGardens to stay updated about new tips for your garden.

Organic Gardening —

Organic Gardening —

Organic gardening was the only way of gardening before chemicals and pesticides arrived to ‘help’ our crops along. Unfortunately there are side effects to many of the chemical products – in fact there are side effects with most of them, although some less harmful than others.

Organic gardening was the way of the past and hopefully it will be the way of the future, as we learn more about the damage we are causing to our environment.

Organic fruit and vegetables can be more expensive than un-organic produce, and it pays therefore to be producing our own food as much as we possibly can. Unless you have a large area of land, including polytunnels and greenhouses, and perhaps an army of gardeners to do a lot of the work for you, it’s unlikely you will be able to grow the variety of fruit and veg you are used to buying.

However, there are many different fruits, vegetables, herbs and even edible flowers we can grow in an average sized garden, and in a few hours every week, organic food can be included in the diet for all the family, however addicted to burgers, fries and chocolate buttons they are!…

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Organic Gardening —

Are you doing this to your Plants (Bonsai)?

Bonsai is one of the oldest art form of humankind. Though it simply means the art of growing ornamental, artificially dwarf variety of trees and shrubs in pots. But it’s not so easy to grow a bonsai from beginning. After reading this it will be easy for you to make a cool bonsai plant.

Choosing a plant

For making a beautiful bonsai your first work is to choose a plant. For which there are some criteria, such as

The Climate you live in: Climate is the most important factor. You can’t grow a deciduous plant in very hot temperature, or can’t grow an evergreen in extreme cold.
Variety of Plants: For beginners it is better to choose dwarf variety plants. But obviously bonsai made with tall variety plants looks gorgeous.
Leaves: If you can choose a small leaf variety plant it will look better later. Though you can reduce the leaf size of your plant afterwards.
Sunlight: Those plants that require a low sunlight will be difficult to grow in high sunlight areas.
Pots: Flat pots are best to grow bonsai. It gives a vintage look.

There are much more but for starters it’s necessary.

How should you care your plant?

“Time and patience are the only thing you need for transforming your regular plant into a bonsai. “

Different plants have different ways to take care about. You should have proper knowledge about your plant you are trying to grow.

Soil: For most of the beginners soil is the most difficult things to choose. Now it depends on what type of plant you are growing. But as a common there should be well drainage. You may use the mixture of approximately 40%compost, 10% vermicompost, (20-30)%sand, 5%small stone chips ( under 10 mm), and (15-25)% garden soil.
Drainage: Usually we grow our bonsai in small pots so there should be a well drainage system such that the roots doesn’t rot. For which you have to make holes (as per your pot size) and keep some stone chips on it to make sure it doesn’t cloak.
Sunlight: Now sunlight is a big deal for shade lovers you need to grow them not under direct sunlight obviously. But for some plants for which you want to reduce leaf size, you should leave it under direct sunlight such that it could be able to create its required form in small part of its leaf and will not increase its length.
Watering: For less rainfall months you need to water regularly. But don’t overwater them. Rather water them twice. And for high rainfall months you should water them when it requires. And sometimes dry up the soil to avoid root rot.

Advanced care

Fertilizers: You need to study about your plants what they require. But for bonsai you need to give less fertilizers so as it get stout not grow fast. Sometimes you may use slow fertilizers like bone dust, horn dust or egg shell You should avoid nitrogen base fertilizer and use carbon or potassium based ones. But don’t overfeed them.
Root Pruning: You are growing your plants in a pot so you do loosen roots by dig the soil once a month. And in the middle of rainy season you pluck the plant with soil. Trim the roots or rearrange it and again plant it. Don’t disturb the roots too much. You may repot them during this time. And keep watering it daily after this for some days.
Shoot Pruning: There are different designs to make with your plants. And for this pruning your stems are important. So whenever you prune keeping mind that cut just over a node or internode, such that it will grow its stem from there. And look that you should cut over a node which is facing the direction in which you want to let it go.
Wiring: Sometimes we require to further design our plants. In that case use 6mm aluminium or copper wire but not iron. It is greatly recommended that do the wiring with hand so that you can know the rigidity and strength of the stem, such that it doesn’t break.

Medicines

Pesticides are more or less required to all plants and as per requirements use it over your plants. But what I do is, I have made some neem tree bonsai and kept it in my bonsai collection and for that reason insects are less attracted. Other than neem you may plant any such types of medicinal plants.

And lastly you should have patience and love for your plants and work you are doing for your plants.

Now it’s very difficult to elaborate everything in one article so to know more follow my website Green Gardens and comments if you have any questions about your bonsai.

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